1997 saturn sl2

1997 saturn sl2 questions and answers

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Q: Why does my 1997 Saturn SL2 beep when I open the door on the driver's side?
I have a 1997 SL2. It's been working wonderfully, but last night it started beeping when I hold the door on the driver's side open. Just before this happened, I very, very low on gas and managed to refuel in time, but it still beeps this morning when I open the door on the driver's side. Does anyone know why? I checked the manual and the warnig lights after I turn on the ignitiion, but nothing stays on once the engine fires up. I don't want to miss something being wrong so I want to find the source. Based on some people's answers so far, I should mention, that it continues to beep even after I take the keys out of the ignition and the ignition system where I put the key isn't pushed in (I discovered that problem before when I couldn't remove the key until I pushed this in and then it popped out like normal).

A: Usually a car will beep if you leave lights on or the keys in the ignition. That happened to me once. I got out of my car and the car was beeping. I checked all my mights and still couldn't figure out what was wrong. After some looking around I finally figured it out. The ignition in my car pops out a little bit when I pull the key out of my ignition. The ignition wasn't popping out when I was taking out the key so the car thought that I still had the key in it. Maybe it is something wrong with the ignition.

Q: Do you have problems with the thermostat on a 1997 Saturn SL2?
I have a 1997 Saturn in which the thermostat is shutting off while driving. I wanted to know if that is a common thing.

A: My husband says that this model typically has a lot of problems, and that if the thermostat is the only issue on yours, count yourself fortunate.

Q: 1997 Saturn SL2 with 125k miles, is it OK to buy?
I will be looking to buy this 1997 saturn SL2 which has 125k miles, is atuomatic and has AC. does anyone know any major problems with this cars and can someone tell me what to look out for when I go to chek it out. The owner says its good and is seling it for 1500. Is it worth it? I dont know much about cars. please give me information on what to look out for and if this is a good deal. thanks

A: Do not under any circumstances tell the vendor you know nothing about cars ! Sharp intake of breath - mileage is on the high side, (usually allow 10,000 miles per year ). Apart from that it is hard to say without more information. You could try Google for more info on the model in question. Also magazines like What Car are a good source of information about model changes, things to look out for, etc. See if you can find a friend (or friend of a friend) who knows about motors to go with you to check it out. Take a torch, a clean rag, tyre pressure gauge, notepad, pen and a small screwdriver. Wear old clothes, because you are going to get a bit dirty. Documentation Make sure it has all the maintenance history, a log book, and is certified as currently road-worthy. Is it a private sale or through a dealer or garage. If the former, be even more cautious because you have practically no come-back if you buy a pup. If the latter, the price being asked is almost certainly too high - go for 10% less as an absolute maximum price you will pay. If they won't budge, walk away. Check out any warranty being offered carefully. Standing Check: If you have to go on your own, check: Tyres: all present, and in reasonable condition, including spare. Measure and note tyre tread depths. Engine: clean, with no oil leaks. If the engine is hot/warm when you arrive, wait for it to cool before restarting it. Check fluid levels. Remove oil filler cap, and look for white deposits - water in the oil which could be expensive. Check oil dipstick (use your rag) for quality and quantity of oil. When started, does the engine start easily ? Does it run smoothly ? Check for clear exhaust for blue, black or white smoke. Bodywork: Clean, with no rust. Doors, bonnet and boot open and close OK. Underside: Rust free. Use your screwdriver to gently probe. Suspension, steering and other mechanicals: Sound with no undue play in universal joints, etc. Use your screwdriver to gently probe. Windows: all Present, and intact Interior: Tidy, with no tears or stains in upholstery, carpets, etc. No funny smells. Controls: Everything works, including radio if present. Note everything that does not work Insist on a Test drive: Check brakes work progressively without noise. When safe to do so, do an emergency stop. Check steering is smooth and progressive without noise. Listen for any clanks and squeaks and get the vendor to explain them. Make sure wipers, AC, windows, etc. all work. Post Test Drive Make notes of anything you noticed in the test drive. After the test drive, stop somewhere other than were the car was standing when you arrived, and check that area for oil stains. Make a note. If there is anything the least bit suspicious, walk away. If yo do decide to proceed, you can use your notes to make sure you squeeze every last penny out of the price. Good luck.

Q: how do i figure out whitch wires go together in a 1997 Saturn sl2 and a Jensen cd2010x?
I have other wires that are cut off and the same colors i need for the one i haven't connected yet. What should I do?

A: 1996-97 Saturn SL Stereo Wiring Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Right Front Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue this should help with the radio's color codes http://mobile.jensen.com/jensen/JensenController.do?ACTION_TYPE_ID=ACTION_TYPE_CATEGORY&ACTION_CATEGORY_ID=STR_CATEGORY_RADIO

Q: I am thinking about buying a 1997 Saturn SL2. I have a concern about idling and broken windows. Help?
First off, I know very little about cars. I have an opportunity to purchase a 1997 Saturn SL2 with 140,000 miles on it but apparently is in good shape (runs well, looks good, etc.). I will be checking it out soon, but there are a few things I already know that I am wondering about. 1) The car evidently "idles high sometimes, takes a while to come back down... idles at 2000 rpms... if [I] wait a little, it'll come back down." Should I be worried? What does this mean? 2) The rear left window is broken. It's even taped on. I will check it out with a mechanic if indeed I am interested in actually buying this car, but I am wondering how much it generally would run me (a ballpark estimate) to repair this. Thank you for your help.

A: I do not know about current Saturns but I can say with experience that the early ones were and are total complete garbage. That high idle is a warning to make sure you take the car to a good mechanic BEFORE you hand over one thin dime. This advice will save you thousands when the mechanic tells you that it is crap and go buy a Honda.

Q: are the bodies for a 1997 saturn SL2 and 2000 Saturn Sl2 the same?
or at least the front bumper?

A: Front bumper cover on a sl2 will fit 96-99 then 00-02

Q: What does the "Turbo" on/off toggle do on a 1997 Saturn SL2?
I've just noticed that on the console between the two front seats where the window controls and the gear shifter is, there is a little button that says "Turbo", and you can turn it on or off. I haven't really noticed a difference keeping it one way or the other, and I wanted to know if it actually served a purpose.

A: Turbo= Fast. Turbo on a saturn = same speed.

Q: why does my 1997 Saturn SL2 keep Stalling?
IT Starts fine and When I drive a Couple Blocks the Entire Car just Shuts Down and Wont restart for about a 1/2 hour. Is it a Particular Relay or Fuse I should look for? Any Help appreciated.

A: Beleive me , it is cheaper to take it and have it diagnosed on a machine. Two many things are possible. Fuel filter, coil soak(over heat), Computer issue , relay, loose connection, etc. I have spent loads of money on new computer cars and never found the right answer until it was scoped.

Q: I have a 1997 Saturn SL2 and the horn doesnt work I replaced the fuse and it still doesnt work?
Does anyone know what it may be?

A: was the fuse blown when you replaced it? if so, the wiring may be bad. if not, then it would probably be either the button inside the car (where you press) or the actual horn itself. check a junkyard for spare parts so you dont have to spend a lot of money.

Q: how can i find out why my service light is on in my 1997 saturn SL2 with 150,000 miles on it?
not the check engine light but the service light, will a computer diagnogstic dermine why, i mean the car is running like a champ

A: Many auto parts stores such as Autozone, and Checker/Schucks/Kragen Auto will hook up a scan tool and read the codes set in your vehicles computer free of charge. I would start there and see what exactly it is . Hope this helps.

Q: I have a 1997 saturn sl2 that leaks antifreeze from the overflow cap, any suggestions?
My saturn, I drove it to work then back home and noticed antifreeze leaking, when I found out where it was coming from it was coming from under the cap of the overflow. When I look it doesnt seem like there is any antifreeze missing, does anyone know what this may be? also I wanted to know when does a fan come on in a car? does it have to be warm or does it come on when it is started? thanks Tracey

A: The cap of the overflow! I have to remember I am not an oil surgeon someone let me know that back on a Honda 750. So pay attention here. If you filled your radiator thru the overflow which is ok but you did it while the engine was cold, once the car warmed up and it was time for the water or antifreeze(semantics) to expand due to the heat . Picture the water rising out of the radiator and into a full over flow.Out the overflow cap. Now if that were not the case and your overflow was at the proper level upon initial starting or lower when the car warmed up the water would rise and expand into the overflow ergo; the name overflow.You on the otherhand probably are experiencing the first signs of a blown head gasket. I hate that!The fan should come on after the car gets to the point where it needs help cooling off, usually runs alot when a head gasket is getting to blow.I really hate that. It dos'nt appear antifreeze is missing because it has air built up in the system, and due to the thermostat , heater valves and other related restrictive parts when you are looking at it,usually when you are most concerned, that its gonna flop right here and now it has a way of fooling yoy until when you are out in the middle of West Podunk and away she blows. Ask a mechanic to do a exhaust ditector test on your overflow and see if there are any exhaust gasses seeping into your cooling sustem. YES you are right, head gasket . I hate that. Good luck and remember I am not an oil surgeon! So let a mechanic do a test its worth the peace of mind to find out I am wrong. Ihate that

Q: Repair cost of Saturn SL2 1997-brakes rotors muffler inspection emission labor?
This sounds high to me - can anyone tell me if I'm just being paranoid? Rotors $64.00 Rear brakes $66.50 Muffler $112.00 Inspection $25.00 Emission Test $45.00 1 hour labor $75.00 total $387.50 + $23.25 tax = $410.75 (it just got inspected 6 months ago too, so none of these should have been that bad)

A: Only thing that maybe high is the Rear brakes for $66.50, autozone sells the ceramic rear pads for $44. Other than that, everything else sounds reasonable.

Q: What is the peak wattage of factory radio in a 1997 Saturn SL2?


A: generally 40W per chennel

Q: Does anyone have a volume knob for a 1997 Saturn SL2?
The stereo is a cd player with a equalizer and it is a factory stereo. I have been to every parts store and junk yard I can think of and cannot find one. Thanks Tracey

A: Yes, I have one off my stock stereo. You can buy the entire stereo of me for $20 plus shipping.

Q: 1997 Saturn SL2 with a squeaky belt?
I have a 1997 saturn with a squeaky belt, every time I turn on the air the belt squeaks really loud and it does it until I shut the air off, so I have to ride around on these hot days with no air because its embarrasing..Can anyone tell me what to do with it? Thanks Tracey The air works on my car and the belt squeaks also when the car first starts up and the air is not on but it doesnt stay on.

A: It's usually not the belt that is bad, but the compressor. When you turn on the air the compressor clutch engages and the cycles on and off periodically running the AC. This usually indicates the compressor has gone bad and you should take it in for service immediately. I've had 3 vehicles with bad compressors. If you are lucky and catch it early you will only have to replace your compressor $250 -$350. If you don't then your compressor will basically self destruct and spew itself through your AC system. At that point you need to replace the compressor, Accumulator/dryer, orifice tube and have your system flushed. That means a extra $200-$300 dollars. Good luck!